Power Steering and Front Suspension 65-70
| 01 February 2005
February’s Pony Tricks column addresses replacement of power steering components and front suspension components. in the early Mustangs up through 1970. The breakoff at 1970 was chosen so that discussion could be restricted to cars with the ram-cylinder power steering system used during the first 6-years of Mustang production but discontinued thereafter. This is not a step-by-step guide to parts replacement but, rather, an overview of things to consider if your Mustang has come down with a case of the “wanders.” If it has this affiction, it may be time to think about a total steering/front suspension rebuild. You’ll achieve the best results if all worn parts are replaced at the same time.
By the way and with tongue in cheek, ram-cylinder power steering is probably everyone’s favorite setup because it’s not very precise and especially because it likes to leak, sometimes a lot. Although a somewhat marginal system, steering feel and safety can be improved a great deal by bringing steering components and suspension components back to factory specifications. It’s even possible to eliminate the leaks.
In this article, the parts to be considered for replacement do not specifically include the power steering pump but don’t overlook it if it’s leaking. And you might want to think about replacing it anyway, if for no other reason than to prevent new power steering parts from being contaminated by old power steering fluid. Also if your shock absorbers aren’t doing the job anymore, consider replacing the full set or at least a pair in the front.
Parts to consider for replacement include upper and lower control arms including ball joints, lower spring seat, upper spring isolator, center link if damaged or converting from manual steering, idler arm, inner and outer tie rod ends complete with new dust boots, sway bar isolators and links, power steering ram cylinder, power steering control valve, control valve ball stud and associated parts, hydraulic lines between the control valve and the ram cylinder, hydraulic pressure line and return line between the control valve and the power steering pump, power steering hose mounting insulator, and finally the steering box.
Of course all nuts, bolts, rubber parts, and cotter pins should be replaced wherever the old parts are changed. This includes the strut rod nuts and strut rod bushings. Most of the nuts and bolts are available as kits from the classic Mustang parts houses or from outfits such as AMK.
If some of the parts listed above are unfamiliar to you, refer to a catalog from one of the classic Mustang parts houses. Many catalogs offer good pictures, diagrams, and descriptions. The National Parts Depot catalog is an example. Be aware that two different control valves were used in 1967/68 cars. One accepted a 5/16” fitting at the control valve end of the pump-to-valve pressure line and the other accepted a 1/4” fitting. If you replace everything at the same time, either size will work as long as the parts match. If you buy a replacement hose or replacement valve by itself, make sure you get the right size.
Keep in mind that some parts are available as either replacement parts or concours parts. Unless your car requires concours parts, replacement parts are generally less expensive and equally serviceable. Take advantage of kits if you have the option. Kits can be much more convenient than buying everything a la carte, especially if you’re like me and forget some nickel and dime item that necessitates another trip to the parts store.
It’s not always true but in many cases, it’s best to use new parts rather than rebuilt parts. Until recently, some parts such as the steering box were available only as rebuilt units. But now steering boxes, using that example again, can be purchased as new units, rebuilt units, or you can buy individual parts to refurbish your old one. The steering box may be the only assembly where you should seriously consider rebuilding your old unit if it’s in good mechanical condition. New boxes are expensive but parts to rebuild an old unit, while costly, are much less expensive. An old box will serve well if it’s thoroughly cleaned inside and out; has new bearings, races, and seals; and has been correctly adjusted for over-center preload and total preload.
On the other hand, new units should be the only ones considered when it comes to the power steering control valve and the ram cylinder. Yes, they’re expensive, particularly the control valve, but new ones work the best and they offer a better opportunity to have a leak free installation. If rebuilt units are selected, make sure they have new seats in the ports where the hydraulic hoses attach. Scarred seats can be one of the main causes of power steering fluid leaks.
Also it’s best to select new upper and lower control arm assemblies versus replacement of just the ball joints and the bushings. With new arms and ball joints, all wear points are corrected at the same time and the time required to install is reduced considerably.
If you’re mechanically inclined, you can save a lot of expense by doing all of the parts changing and refurbishing yourself. Refer to a factory service manual or a good after-market manual for guidance. You’ll need some special tools in addition to a good set of wrenches, sockets, etc., You’ll need such items as a spring compressor, a pitman arm puller, ball joint separator, and tie rod separator. But if you like this sort of thing and can take your pony out of service for a while, it’s a project that can be done at home. If you choose the DIY approach, the only professional contribution to the job would be a good front end alignment after everything is back together.