Engine Compartment and Undercarriage that Sparkles
| 31 May 2003
When it comes to cleaning the engine compartment and the undercarriage of your car (pony or otherwise), many of you probably have your own pet procedure. Others may be wondering how to do it. And still others wonder why some of us do it at all. It’s the second group that this “Pony Tricks” article is aimed at, i.e., those wondering about a procedure.
As said, there are probably several effective ways to clean these areas but the steps described below are the ones that work for me. I routinely clean both areas on each of my vehicles but different procedures apply depending on how the individual vehicle is used.
First on a daily driver truck and an occasional-driver Mustang Cobra, I keep the fender wells and engine compartments clean by washing them regularly. The procedure for fender wells is to mix a solution of liquid Dawn in a bucket and then use a sponge wrapped in nylon mesh to thoroughly wash out each one. After washing as clean as possible, a garden hose is used to thoroughly flood the area to rinse off the soap and residual dirt. That’s it; drying is left to Mother Nature. Another method for cleaning fender wells is to spray them with one of the no-touch tire cleaners on the market. Clean fender wells make a world of difference in the appearance of a freshly washed vehicle.
The engines and engine compartments in both vehicles are washed using a solution of car-wash soap applied with a one-gallon pressure-sprayer. The entire engine and surrounding compartment are sprayed with the solution until it’s gone. Then before the wet surface can dry, it’s rinsed thoroughly by spraying with a garden hose. A leaf blower is used to blow off the rinse water and dry the area. A small electric blower with a velocity of about 150 mph works well. The blower is probably 95% effective so when most of the water has been blow off, the vehicle is driven for 4 or 5 miles to complete the job.
Two important precautions apply whenever liquids are sprayed on an engine. The first is to only wash a cold engine because it’s important to rinse the solution before it dries. A warm engine causes the solution to dry almost immediately which can cause staining. The second is to make sure the distributor, if so equipped; carburetor if so equipped; and exposed crankcase breather, if so equipped are all sealed against moisture penetration. It’s also a good idea to seal around oil dip sticks for the engine, (automatic) transmission, and the power steering. The last thing you want is to have water get inside a device that should only have oil in it.
On the daily driver truck, the engine compartment and wheel wells are the only areas cleaned. But the occasional driver Cobra also gets a once-a-year belly pan and suspension wipedown. The procedure consists of spraying with WD-40 and wiping with an old T-shirt. Working methodically from one end of the vehicle to the other, it takes one to two hours to complete the job. If you perform your own tire rotation procedure, you may want to clean some of the suspension components while the wheels are off the car. The parts directly behind the inside of the wheels, just behind the brakes, are more easily reached when the wheels are out of the way.
With the two drivers taken care of, it’s time to concentrate on the procedure for a first generation trailered concours Mustang. Right off the bat the approach changes except for the belly pan and suspension components. Those parts get the same WD-40 treatment as the occasional driver. Only they get it before every show rather than once a year. The fender wells never get very dirty so they get a sponge bath with clear water using a damp sponge wrapped in nylon mesh. They’re never flooded with water. The wettest they ever get is “damp.” Drying is done by wiping or blotting with a paper towel or absorbent cloth. Sometimes the splash shields inside the fender wells look dull after the damp-sponge wipedown. If that’s the case, they’re touched up with a rag dampened with WD-40.
The concours engine compartment is never wet-washed. All black areas (inner fender skirts, spring towers, firewall, radiator support, fan blades, various black brackets, pulleys, etc.) are individually wiped with a black sock moistened with mineral oil. This action cleans the surface and leaves a uniform sheen. If the car will be in storage for a while the mineral oil is left as-applied. If the car is being prepared for a show, a second (dry) black sock is used to wipe the entire area to minimize the amount of mineral oil left on the various surfaces. The reason for removing most of the oil is to minimize the tendency for the surface to trap dust.
The concours engine is cleaned only as required. Any oil or gasoline residue is wiped away with a rag moistened with WD-40. But the final cleanup is done by wiping the air cleaner, valve covers, oil pan, power steering reservoir and other glossy parts with a rag moistened with detailer. The same detailer used for exterior body panels works well for that purpose. Final dusting is performed at the show site with a paper towel very slightly dampened with water. The dampness prevents static electricity buildup and makes the towel an effective tool for removing the light coating of dust that will have collected on various surfaces. Some paper towels are quite harsh and abrasive. Don’t use that kind; use only a soft, non-abrasive non-linting type.
A final thought concerning the engine compartment of a concours car is directed at the battery. Acid fumes caused by charging or acid spots from a spill can dull and stain the top of the battery. After experimenting with various means of restoring the top, Black Magic Professional Protectant has become my favorite way to bring back the new appearance.
First, thoroughly clean the battery. Take it out of the car if the stain is severe and wash it with a solution of baking soda, rinse it with water and dry it. Otherwise, with it still in the car, thoroughly wipe the top with a wet towel and let it dry. When it’s completely dry, spray the top with Black Magic and work it into the entire surface. With a soft cloth, carefully wipe away excess protectant until all liquid is removed. The battery will look shiny and new. But keep the protectant handy because frequent touch up may be necessary.