Wheel Bearing Replacement on 1994-current Mustangs

Written by Todd Howe | 01 December 2010

Front wheel bearing technology remained largely unchanged on Mustangs from the launch of the 1964½ models through the 1993 model year. Save for the size of the bearings used on various different models over the years, the overall design is surprisingly similar. However, beginning with the new-for-1994 Mustang which, though still based on the Fox-body platform that had been in use since 1979, included significant upgrades and changes as part of the design and this included a change from re-packable front wheel bearings to a sealed bearing hub design.

The new design still incorporates two bearings that ride on the spindle. However, these bearings are now mounted in a hub assembly instead of in the brake rotor, and the bearings are press-fit into the hub instead of free-floating in the brake rotor bearing races. The new bearing design has some pros and cons associated with it. On the plus side, the new assembly includes sealed-for-life bearings and as result do not require repacking which eliminates this task from the maintenance list. On the negative side, when it comes time to replace a noisy bearing, the entire hub assembly is typically replaced which is a good bit more costly than the replacement of individual bearings on the earlier models.

As an example, one can replace inner and outer wheel bearings, races, retaining hardware, seals, grease, and grease caps for about $35 per side, or less as the retaining hardware can often be reused (save for the cotter pin, of course!). On a later model car however, the hub assembly is around $55 per side, plus the retaining nut and dust cap must be replaced as well, adding an additional $16 per side for the nut and $7 per side for the dust cap. An additional negative, is that you may need some tools that aren’t standard issue in most tool boxes to change the hub assembly on a later model car, specifically a 250 ft-lb rated torque wrench and a 36mm socket for the hub retaining nut. Fortunately, both of these items are usually available from your favorite auto parts store’s loan-a-tool program. Speaking of auto parts stores, it’s worth noting here that while replacement hub assemblies are available from aftermarket suppliers, the retaining nut and dust cover are still dealer-only items (or available from OEM Ford parts sources like Mustangs Unlimited or Latemodel Restoration), so plan accordingly.

As result of an overzealous grease monkey with an impact gun over at Tire Kingdom, I found myself with two cross-threaded lug nuts on my left front wheel. Normally this would be a minor inconvenience, but unfortunately this happened the day before the 10^th Annual CRMC Driving School last June. Long story short, not only were the nuts cross-threaded, but they also stripped the knurl off of the stud which elongated the hole in the hub and necessitated replacement of the assembly. Given my overkill nature, I elected to replace both sides. The replacement is a relatively straightforward project and can be accomplished in a couple of hours. This procedure is specific to the 1994-2004 model years, but is similar for the 2005-current. If working on a current generation car, be sure to reference a shop manual for the appropriate torque specifications. Follow along:

Step 1: Untorque your lug nuts prior to raising the vehicle. Then carefully raise the front of the vehicle and place securely on jackstands. Be safe! Do not work underneath a car supported only by a jack.

Step 2: Remove the lug nuts and wheels.

Step 3: Remove the brake caliper from the caliper mounting bracket by removing the e-clip from the retaining pin and then driving the retaining pin out with a drift. The caliper can now be lifted off of the mounting bracket and secured with a piece of wire. Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose.

Step 4: Remove the caliper mounting bracket by removing the two 16mm bolts from the back of the spindle. Once the bracket is removed, the brake rotor can also be slid off the wheel studs and set aside.

Step 5: Using a small flat blade screwdriver, pry the dust cover off of the hub, exposing the retaining nut.

Step 6: Using a 36mm socket and breaker bar, loosen the retaining nut. This nut is factory torqued to 258ft lbs, so prepare to use some serious “oomph” to break this loose. The retainer nut is standard thread- “righty-tighty / lefty-loosy.

Step 7: Once the retaining nut is removed, the hub should slide off the spindle. You may need a rubber mallet to provide some necessary persuasion if the hub does not slide off freely.

Step 8: Once the hub is removed, clean and inspect the spindle. Any rough areas can be cleaned up with a light emory cloth. However, for a spindle that is severely pitted or gouged (as would be likely if the bearing had failed or seized), it would be best to replace the spindle.

Step 9: This is an opportune time to clean the ABS sensor. The sensor is a magnetic probe so it will likely be covered with metallic debris from the wear of the brake linings. Use a clean rag to wipe the debris from the end of the probe.

Step 10: Slide the new hub onto the spindle until it bottoms against the shoulder. The new hub assembly comes factory lubricated so no additional grease is needed.

Step 11: Install a NEW retainer nut (Ford P/N: F3LY-3B477-A for 1994-2004 Mustangs) and torque to the factory setting of 258 ft lbs. DO NOT reuse the original retainer nut.

Step 12: Install a NEW dust cap (Ford P/N F3DZ-1N135-A for 1994-2004 Mustangs) using a seal driver or a socket of the appropriate diameter ensuring you don’t kink or damage the seal during installation.

Step 13. Clean the brake rotor with some brake cleaner and reinstall the disc on the wheel studs.

Step 14: Reinstall the caliper bracket. Use blue threadlocker on the bracket mounting bolts and torque to 85 ft lbs.

Step 15: Reinstall the brake caliper and retaining hardware, followed by the wheel and the lug nuts. To avoid what got me into the predicament of changing hubs in the first place, I recommend installing the lugs BY HAND!

Step 16: Safely lower the car back to the ground. Torque your lug nuts to 100 ft lbs and take the Pony for a ride!